Issued in Limited Edition and Numbered Series.

The Calibre R22 Collection

The R22 Mark I Mechanically Performing Belt Buckle – Bugatti Edition

Developed in association with the legendary Bugatti Automobile Company, Roland Iten has designed a unique mechanically performing  belt mechanism to rival even the finest watch movements.  Hand- crafted bridges, cogs, wheels, springs and pinions all interconnect to create a mechanism that allows the wearer to obtain the absolute precise fit.

Traditional belts come in lengths of 90, 100, 110 or 120 cm, but the Roland Iten R22 Mk.I-22mm "Bugatti edition" mechanical buckle is micro customizable to any size within a 22mm range, whether it is 87.29, 99.45 or 108.98 cm. This sophisticated instrument, constructed with the highest precision mechanics and the finest materials, not only allows a contemplated adjustment to the exact waist measurement, but affords an expansion range of 22mm thanks to a unique reverse engineered "engrenage" invention which is discreetly cached under the "hood" of this magnificent piece.

Comprised of precisely 100 components in solid white and rose gold, lightweight titanium and stainless steel, each piece of this limited edition series of 22, has been entirely handcrafted, polished and assembled by master craftsmen in hi-precision watch-making in Geneva, Switzerland and supervised throughout the production process by Roland Iten himself.

The patent-pending expansion mechanism uses flow-guiding wheels that are incorporated into the teeth of the gear system to provide a "click-free click" * and minimal friction.  There are five gears in total that allow the fine-tuning calibration of the belt from 0-22mm. A rolling click calibration lock complication, a vertical rotating friction controlled pin and a mechanically leveraged belt insertion clip all demonstrate the incredible mechanical savoir-faire that is hiding under the smoked sapphire crystals and Côtes de Genève decoration.

* In almost every wind up watch is an escapement which incorporates what is known as the "Breguet Tooth".  The Breguet Tooth is actually a "cog"  which has a 45 degree angle on one side and a 90 degree angle on the other. Gears made up of these cogs or "teeth" when operated in one direction will slide on the long (45 degree) side,  then click when they reach the 90 degree side,  slide again, then click,  etc.,  but if wound in reverse,  they will lock at the 90 degree angle, unless there is some other release mechanism such as a clutch. This is important so that the spring in the watch does not unravel. The R22 Mechanically Performing Belt Buckle incorporates an evolution of this concept.  Instead of a  "Breguet Tooth" cog, the mechanism incorporates patented "cog-wheels".   The Cog Wheels reduce the friction to practically zero, therefore,  when operated in either direction,  instead of  a "slide-click, slide-click"  it creates an almost seamless "rolling click"  which not only allows a micro-adjustment of the buckle in either direction with the minimum of force,  but increases the longevity of the mechanism due to the substantial reduction in the friction.    This feature is what Roland Iten refers to as the "click-free-click".

Collector's information

  • FIVE GEAR FINE-TUNING CALIBRATION BETWEEN 0MM AND 22MM
  • ROLLING CLICK CALIBRATION LOCK COMPLICATION
  • VERTICAL ROTATING FRICTION CONTROLLED PIN
  • LEVER ACTIVATED MECHANICAL LOCKING SYSTEM
  • MECHANICALLY LEVERAGED BELT INSERTION CLIP
  • EASY CHANGEABILITY OF LEATHER STRAP
  • FRICTION CONTROLLED FLOW-GLIDING WHEELS

Mechanical Features

Derivations

  • R22 18-CARAT WHITE & ROSE GOLD

    • Lightweight titanium and stainless steel architecture for tension and impact control
    • 62 grams of 18-carat white and 5N rose gold
    • Smoked sapphire crystals on the hood
    • Côtes de Genève motif
    • 2 TW VVS+ diamond for the pin
    • Limited Series: 22 pieces in 18-carat white and rose gold